The Musée des Arts Décoratifs is delighted
to pay homage to this multidisciplinary
icon. Far from a classic retrospective,
Thierry Mugler, Couturissime will
encapsulate the life and energy that
defined the historic collaborations between
Thierry Mugler and his creative alter-ego
Manfred. The exhibition will be presented
in the newly renovated Christine and
Stephen A. Schwarzman Fashion Galleries
of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. From the
1970’s until 2002 when Mugler turned the
page on fashion, the creator established
himself as one of the most daring and
innovative couturiers of his time, creating
silhouettes of remarkable potency often
hailed as the embodiment of the 1980’s
through the lens of fashion. In the 1990’s,
Mugler galvanized the renaissance
of haute couture through his bold
collections and spectacular understanding
of scenography, exemplified in his fashion
shows and catwalks, which included the
use of grandiose photography and the
most iconic models of the day.
The exhibition, organized in several
acts like a classic opera, thematically
blends costumes, animated projections,
photographs and music, creating varying
atmospheres that personify the numerous
projects Mugler has championed since the
end of the 1970’s. Displayed on two floors
of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the
exhibition’s opening aquatic theme evokes
an eccentric world of fantasy-inspired
fauna in which excess abounds, from the
ocean’s surface to the depths of the sea.
The following segment highlights two
flamboyant silhouettes from Mugler’s Insect
and Chimères Collection of 1997/1998 -
futuristic silhouettes with high, piercing
shoulders, plunging décolletés, and surreal
hourglass waistlines. The first exhibited
silhouette includes a black velvet sheath
and train adorned with butterfly wings
created by the Maison Lemarié, covered
in iridescent scales and embroidered with
crystals, costume diamonds, feathers
and horsehair, all representative of the
extravagance of Mugler’s couture.
The second installation depicts Nymphs
donning scalloped glass and shell bustiers
alongside extravagant organza jellyfish
evoking the imagery of Jules Verne’s
Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea.
The theme of Science Fiction succeeds
the animal and aquatic kingdoms
as animated super heroines, industrial
design and futuristic automobiles
become new sources of inspiration.
Surprising creatures, robots and
chassis, all aerodynamic in their
design, are wrought in innovative yet
emblematic materials, foreseeing
the evolution of transhumanism.
Here, Mugler has cleverly proposed
removable or “convertible” sleeves,
“bumper” bustiers and “radiator” belts,
transporting the visitor back to Mugler’s
Maschinenmensch (machine-human)
Collection unveiled in 1995 for the
20th anniversary of the founding of his
fashion house: a fully articulated robotic
armor which required no less than six
months of intensive preparation. Apart
from fashion design, Thierry Mugler
distinguished himself in the world
of perfumes with the 1992 release of his
scent “Angel,” an olfactory revolution that
launched the trend of high-end perfumes,
as demonstrated at the end of this
segment of the exhibition, where aroma
becomes synonymous with infinity and
dreams.
From the end of the 1960’s, fashion
photography asserted itself as an art
form, replacing illustrations which had
once reigned supreme. Beginning
on the second floor, Thierry Mugler,
Couturissime gives pride of place to this
artistic medium with numerous rare prints
signed by artists and photography greats
including Guy Bourdin, Jean-Paul Goude,
Karl Lagerfeld, Dominique Issermann,
David LaChapelle, Luigi & Iango, Sarah
Moon, Pierre et Gilles, Paolo Roversi,
Herb Ritts and Ellen von Unwerth,
while also highlighting the timeless
collaboration between Thierry Mugler
and photographer Helmut Newton.
This
room is dedicated to the photographic
achievements of Mugler himself who,
in 1976, began photographing his own
visual campaigns, playing on the glamour
and beauty of his muses, from Jerry
Hall to Iman, in exotic locations such as
Greenland, the Sahara Desert, and the
rooftop of the Paris Opera House.
In the late 1970’s, Mugler created his
acclaimed “Glamazon,” a chic, modern,
glamorous urban woman whose style
was selected in direct opposition to the
flower power, hippie fashions of the
time. In black and white décor, Mugler’s
crystal creations arouse the temptations
of eroticism and fetishism, with exposed
creations that combine latex and vinyl,
subversive materials that Mugler elevated
to the level of classics.
Music takes pride of place with George
Michael’s song and music video “Too
Funky,” which Mugler directed in 1991.
The fashion ensembles for the video were
worn throughout the 1990’s by top models
of the day, including Eva Herzigova,
Linda Evangelista, Emma Sjöberg, Estelle
Lefebure, transgender model Connie
Girl, and performers Joey Arias and Julie
Newmar, the first “Catwoman.” It also
pays tribute to the eight-time Oscarwinning
American costume designer, Edith
Head. Mugler’s catwalks launched the
phenomenon of celebrities-as-models,
inviting Hollywood celebrities such
as Diana Ross, Tippi Hedren and Sharon
Stone to participate as models, staging
elaborate backgrounds and producing
original soundtracks for their walks.
Finally, the exhibition showcases
costumes designed by the artist for
the stage, including works devised for
the theatrical production of Macbeth
presented by the Comédie-Française
at the Festival d’Avignon in 1985. Mugler’s
design for the character of the first witch,
along with his original sketches displayed
in life-sized proportions on the wall
and a multimedia installation by Michel
Lemieux (4D Art), are just a few examples
of the designs intended to transport the
visitor back to this tragic Shakespearean
world.
Thierry Mugler, Couturissime
is an opportunity to discover and
rediscover the brilliance of this artist,
and in turn, dancer, man of the stage,
photographer and designer – an artist
who marked his time by revolutionizing
the world of fashion through his creations
with sculptural morphologies that are
both futuristic and elegant. Mugler’s
distinctive style transcends fashion,
having influenced generations of artists
to this very day.